The Grand Canyon Page

2024: Grand Canyon Anniversary

2024: Grand Canyon Part 1: Conifer to GC  Grand Cayon Part2: Arizona to Colorado

2022: Grand Canyon Anniversary

Grand Canyon and Zion 2004    Part 1: South Rim to Phantom Ranch   Part 2: Phantom Ranch to North Rim and hike at  Zion NP (Rev 07/25/14)

Grand Canyon 1991 This was the first of 17 rim-river or rim-rim hikes. What fun!

2019: Canyonlands and Grand Canyon NP

2002: Grand Canyon Xmas

Grand Canyon 1994 South Kaibab down Bright Angel up

1996_Grand_Canyon_North_to_South

Zion_GC_1999        Zion NP: Angels Landing        Grand Canyon NP: Old Bright Angel Route

2007: Grand_Canyon_122407

 Grand Canyon and Zion 2000 photos  (Rev 02/19/08)

 Notes:

 Grand Canyon ’98 - from South to North
 Grand Canyon '96 -- from North to South

 Grand Canyon ’98 - from South to North

I dosed off to sleep at 12:30 AM listening to the rain hitting the roof. It had been a hectic work week. with weeknight commitments and business travel. So we packed our Grand Canyon duffels late Friday night after a CSO Stravinsky concert. With six months planning, why are we packing at midnight?
 

The alarm jolted us into action. Don’t want to be late for the flight! We bumbled through showers and loading the car, and we were off. Hopefully, we’ll catch a sweet roll at the airport. The morning air was cool after the May showers, but the sky was clear. On our way to DIA again! Even though I’m no great fan of DIA, it’s still a great feeling to walk into the main concourse,  with its  bright ceiling and shining floors. The anticipation of another trip and the get-away feeling are exhilarating - even to the half-awake midnight packer. The lines snake back and forth three lengths of the United domestic check-in counters. We saw Norm in line and talked briefly with him. The wait was long enough, that we went straight to the gate without a sweet roll. Eric and Margaret were already there waiting to board. We’re starting to converge.
No sweet roll on the flight. Just a strange waffle like cookie. I read my Lonely Planet Peru book, as the whole Peru contingent will be on this year’s Grand Canyon hike.  The flight was pleasant. As much as I enjoyed the social aspect of the van trips from Denver to the Canyon, the inexpensive Las Vegas flight takes so much fatigue out of the three-day jaunt and it feels a bit more exotic. We got off the plane right in front of a Burger King selling croissant-wiches. We bought two and tucked them into a daypack. At the baggage claim we met Deac, who flew in from California. The team grows. We gathered the duffels and did the ritual North Rim, South Rim sorting of stuff.
We all filed out to the designated meeting spot at the parking structure catwalk. Stu was waving, just as planned. We met up with Stu, Fred and Nancy. They had picked up the vehicles and provisioned each rim with coolers of sandwiches, snacks, soda and beer. This year we had more toys: Nancy brought two-way radios and Stu brought topos to use with GPS’s. Greetings and exchanges complete, the two groups departed for their respective rims.
 

We are going from south to north this year, so we are soon heading out of Las Vegas toward the Hoover Dam. Eating our croissant-wiches in the car, we finally connect with some breakfast.  This year we stopped at the Hoover Dam to do some sight-seeing. We took the 30 minute tour for $8. It was actually quite interesting. We went down inside the tunnels to the base of the dam and saw the generators. The 17 generators took 3 years each to build. 38" diameter, 65’ shafts with tons of heavy wire rotating so smoothly. The 600 foot wide concrete structure required a continuous 24 hour a day pour of 18 months. The project came in under budget and ahead of schedule. The only other engineering projects of this magnitude to finish on time were the Golden Gate Bridge and the building of the Pentagon. All these great American projects were undertaken between 1920 and 1950. I couldn’t help but wonder if they are not the monuments commemorating America’s zenith. Could we perform today as they performed in the 1930’s on these same projects? The monuments on the plaza seemed appropriate. Two Winged figures of the Republic flank a 142-foot flagpole, all on a terrazzo floor, inlaid with a star chart. It was like something you’d find commemorating a great Egyptian or Roman work.
 

Our drive to the South Rim continued. Kris snoozed as Deac and I caught up on computer stuff. We were soon driving into the Park, with a driving time of 5 hours, plus a Hoover visit of 90 minutes. The South Rim did not seem as full as other years. Dick and Gail had left a note at the registration desk. As I phoned their room, Kris bolted into the souvenir store. While arranging a meeting with Dick and Gail, I could see Kris hovering like a bumble bee from T-shirt to T-shirt.
 

The south rimmers met for a beer at the Lancaster/Wallack suite, then proceeded to the rim and dinner. We were able to talk to the North-rimmers over the radios at the rim. It was the first sight of the rim for us this year. It never looses its grandeur. Surprisingly, we were seated immediately at the Bright Angel Lodge. We suspected that because we arrived at the restaurant right at sunset, we hit a good time. We enjoyed a tasty spaghetti dinner and sauntered back to the Maswick Lodge. We checked the shuttle schedule on the way back. 5:11 AM seemed to be a good departure. The shuttle stop was only about 200 meters from the rooms.
 

Our wake-up call came at 4 AM. We were smearing on the sun screen and making our instant coffees by 4:30 when Dick joined us. We each had a huge sticky bun from the south cooler. Stu’s Food Crew had provisioned us well. The bus was on time. There were a half dozen other hikers that boarded at the Yavapai Lodge. The bus driver was friendly. Said she got up a 3 AM to start the early shuttle schedule. She said the Park Service had been taking surveys of the rim-to-rim hikers at the trailheads for several weeks. She was right.

It was the first light of dawn at 5:30 AM as we arrived at the South Kaibab Trailhead. A ranger seemed to appear out of nowhere as we got off the bus. Actually, he was very friendly. He asked how far we were planning to hike. When we answered to the North Rim, he distributed questionnaires. I suspect our canyon hiking is likely to be affected by more Park Service control and permits next year.
It was 5:45. The first sunlight was hitting the high ridges of the canyon. Grofe’s timpani drum roll captures the feeling exactly. There was a red tint to the light and a bit of haze looking across to our destination some 20.9 trail miles to the north. The trail begins down a series of tight switchbacks and soon traverses  its way out to the prominent ridge line that it follows all the way down to the Tonto Plateau. This is as good as you will feel all day! The air is cool, the views of sunrise in the canyon are spectacular. The vantage gained by following the ridge down the top half of the descent over the concave cavern of the upper Bright Angel Trail makes the South Kaibab worth the logistics of the early morning shuttle.
 

A pleasant feature of the descent is that conversations are far more interesting than the mono-syllable interchanges that take place on the upper stretches of the ascent. Although, by then, Kris had probably heard about enough computer talk after at least a mile’s worth of flatbed scanner babble. The sky was clear and the temperature at the South Rim this year at dawn was about 40 - 50 F. The North Rim was reporting 29 F at dawn. We saw only a couple of other groups on the way down. One group of about ten hikers was lead by a man from Texas who had done rim-to-rim-to-rim more than once. He was introducing some friends to the canyon. We talked a bit with them during our 20 minute breakfast break at our rock outcrop looking down over the Colorado River.
 

The hike down to the river seemed take less effort this year. Probably due to El Nino. The vegetation was greener as well. We topped out water jugs at the pump by the Black Bridge. It was only 80 F when we crossed the river. We’ve seen 100+ in the past and were glad to see the temperatures were moderate.
 

We kept moving up the trail to Phantom Ranch. The slight incline and the normal heating of the inner canyon cause a marked change to the hike just past the bridge. The cool morning downhill walk abruptly give way to the warm, sandy cactus country. By the time we reach Phantom Ranch, a different mood is set. We relaxed there for over 45 minutes, eating the first installment of lunch and drinking the finest $1.60 lemonade you’ve ever tasted. Kris was bartering for different lunch meat and Deac was doctoring his feet. ‘Tis a fine thing to bask in the shade for a while.
 

Deac inquired at the Phantom Ranch about the yucca-like plants with the large flowers. We learned that the Century Plants growing in the Grand Canyon were more correctly the Agave Americana. The most familiar species of the Agave is the American aloe, commonly known as the Century Plant through a mistaken idea that it blooms only after reaching 100 years of age. Actually the time of blooming depends upon the plant's vigor and the conditions under which it grows. In warm countries flowers appear in a few years. In colder climates it requires from 40 to 60 years. After blooming  time, the plant dies. We were curious whether the 60:1 ratio of blooming to non-blooming could be validated by the ones we saw. It seemed about right!
 

The North Rim part of the hike is long and I tend to think of it in three sections:  "The Box", "The Stinkin’ Desert" and "Roaring Springs Canyon".  The Box is an interesting, narrow stretch of the trail along the Bright Angel Creek, where the walls of the canyon are mostly Pre-Cambrian Vishnu Schist with vertical fractures and dykes that rise steeply from the creek bed. We wound through the labyrinth, hiking mostly in the shade. What a contrast from the grand vistas coming down the ridge on the South Kaibab Trail. We did encounter one large Bull snake crossing the trail. He won the right of way...It is on this section that we meet up with the north-to south hikers. We exchanged keys and room info, and enjoyed another 15 minute break.
 

As the trail emerges from the vertical rock of The Box, the first horizontal layers of  the stinkin’ desert appear. This appears to be about at the same level as the Tonto Plateau. The temperature on this stretch of the hike ran about 90 to 93 F. There were more varied colors of cactus flowers this year. We were still counting Agaves through the desert. We met up with Dan Leeth and his friends  a mile or so south of the Cottonwood Campground. We had a pleasant chat and moved on. They confirmed that the Wall Creek was high enough that it was necessary to remove the boots to make the crossing. A few minutes after leaving Dan, we saw for ourselves. The Wall Creek was only 10 feet across, but it was about a foot deep. We found the crossing quite refreshing! We were enjoying the great feeling of the cold foot-bath for the next hour.
The most dramatic part of trail is definitely Roaring Springs Canyon. Winding up the canyon on narrow ledges, the trail provides spectacular views of the gorge. From a mile or so beyond Roaring Springs to the tunnel, the trail often has vertical or overhanging red rock on the left and an airy view of the canyon to the right. Looking up the canyon, it is hard to believe that a trail actually goes where the North Kaibab goes. By the time we reached the tunnel, the midges, or small black flies, were becoming a bit annoying. I passed around some bug juice, and everyone seemed glad to smear a bit on. The walls of the canyon start to roll back at a lower angle. Getting past the white band took forever. That seemed like it should have been the top ... but nooo. Another several hundred feet of elevation.
 

Kris had that determined look at the tunnel. She put both hands on her hips and set her jaw. That was the last we saw of Dick and Kris until we got to the parking lot. Deac and I were taking up the rear at a slow, but steady, pace. I admit to some relief to see light shining from behind the trees as we realized we were there. The sounds of cars and traffic confirmed it - we were at the North Kaibab Trailhead! It was 6:05 PM. Just about 12 hours, with an actual hiking time between 10 and 11 hours. For those who do the rim-to-rim-to-rim, my hat’s off to you each time I emerge over the rim. The thought of turning 180 and repeating the whole thing is formidable.
 

Each little comfort was well appreciated for the next few hours. From setting in the car seat, to the hot shower, to the cold can of beer. Each little comfort felt so good. We all met for dinner at the lodge after the showers. Unfortunately, one table had poor service, but got their dinners for free. Our table had good food and service. I enjoyed a New York strip steak and a glass of Sierra Nevada.
 

The morning breakfast this year was quite memorable. We were seated at one of the best tables in the lodge. Right next to the window overlooking the entire Grand Canyon. We traced our ridge down from the South Rim and gazed upon our route through three pots of coffee along with bacon and eggs. Life is mighty good! Another good trip.
 

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Grand Canyon 1996 -- From North to South

Saturday morning was spent  packing. At first leisurely, then as the time grew nigh, more rapidly. Eric drove down Friday evening and stayed with us. We left for the Colorado Springs Airport at 11:00am, as planned, picking up Al enroute. It was still raining. The drive to the Springs took longer than expected due to several miles of stop and go on I-25 from I-470 to Surrey Ridge and many miles of "grooved" pavement. We got to the airport at 1:15pm for a 1:50 flight on Reno Air. I parked the car in the overflow long-term mud lot. It was a relief to be checked on to the flight. Norm and Jack had the longest drive down and appeared a bit harassed as they checked in just in time.

The flight was as fine as any vacation flight. All the tickets purchased as a group were seated close, so we could go over maps etc. We landed at Las Vegas at 2:50pm. We picked up the vans and the two groups wished each other luck. They went south and we went north. We stopped in north Las Vegas at a small store called Mario's for the beer, pop and ice for the trip. We were relieved to see the van intact when we nipped out of the store! The drive to the North Rim took close to the predicted time, faster in the new 75mph sections and slower in construction. We arrived at the North Rim Lodge at 8:45pm.

We took care of the check-in, then had a fine meal of pasta and pork medallions in the lodge restaurant. The room must have been 30' tall in the center, all logs. They even had Bass Ale.

We woke at 4:00am and by 4:20 we were having a groggy cup of instant coffee and "cin-a-bun" purchased in the Las Vegas Airport. Our timing was pretty close to optimum, as it was dark when we left the lodge, but dawn at the trailhead 2 miles north. There was still snow in patches from the Friday storm and the weather report put the morning temperature at 29F. The trail was wet, but free of snow. We started down through large pines at 5:00am.

Where the South Rim trails have the full canyon vistas, the North Kaibab trail works its way down the steep Roaring Springs Canyon. The views on the North Kaibab are impressive due more to the steepness in the confined gorge and the hanging side-cut trails. Even with the dramatic cliffs, the trail was wide and provided excellent hiking. We made the 7 miles down to the Cottonwood Campground in a couple hours and enjoyed the last of the monster "cin-a-buns" at a clearing alongside the Bright Angel Creek.

The next 3 miles of the North Kaibab was a gentle downhill cruise through some open and arid sections. During the next 4 miles to Phantom Ranch, the trail follows a narrow gorge through fractured rock. It was about half way through this stretch that we met the south-to-north contingent and swapped keys. We enjoyed a short visit and continued on to lunch at Phantom Ranch. There we sipped iced lemonade under a shade tree from 11:00 to about 11:45am.

The temperature at the Colorado river was only 82F. By 12:00 noon we were starting our climb up the Bright Angel Trail. We kept a steady pace up moderate grade to Indian Gardens Campground and had a 20 minute break for lunch #2.

Then the climb began. After the mile or so of gentle uphill, the trail starts the switch backs on talus mounds that continues right on up to the South Rim. The views of the main canyon open up with each switch back. It became a game to pick a neighboring pinnacle and watch as you climbed even with it and eventually looked down on it. The trail takes on a bit of a circus atmosphere right at the top as there are hikers plodding their way back up ranging from full fledged tourists in dress shoes to multi-day backpackers. Everyone's got their eye fixed on the top. We oozed up over the rim at 5:02pm (Eric) and 5:09pm (Al, Kris & John). What a hike! 23.5 miles.

Eric graciously agreed to pick up the van left at the South Kaibab Trailhead, while the rest of us hobbled over to the Maswick Lodge. There we found a wonderful cooler with beer and wine. We picked the peanuts out of the gorp and drank a beer with our feet up. After a hot shower, we had a fine prime rib at the Arizona Steak House. A full, but fine day.

The 4:30am departure felt a bit rough. Frankly, we could have all slept another 10 hours or so. But a McDonalds breakfast on the road got us to Las Vegas again by 9:30am. We checked in the van and were at the airport in time for the flight back. All in all, the flight forced our schedule but was much less fatiguing than the 12 hour van drive back to Colorado that we had done in the past. We returned home to patches of spring snow. It was a fine trip, and a fine time was had by all!

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